Those-who-touched-the-Apex, Negoiu Peak (2535m), Făgăraș-Part I

Date: 19 ^th of July 2017.
Team: Myself, Dragoș, Rareș, Matei, Sebi.
Route: →Bâlea Lake (Bâlea Lac)--Lăițel Peak (Vârful Lăițel)--Călțun Lake (Lacul Călțun)--Lady’s Breach (Strunga Doamnei) -- Negoiu Peak (Vârful Negoiu).
             →Negoiu Peak (Vârful Negoiu)--Lady’s Breach (Strunga Doamnei)--Călțun Lake (Lacul Călțun)--Grigore’s Trail (Poteca lui Grigore)--Bâlea Lake (Bâlea Lac).

First of all, I want to thank Matei for translating this article. 
Also, Matei added what is written in red. 

Last year, Podragu Hut, after we had reached the highest peak in Romania. There were so many groups of real mountain people and a lot of foreigners. Then I heard an old woman from Germany who was saying that she hasn’t seen landscapes more beautiful than the ones she saw during her climbing towards the Negoiu Peak. At that moment I couldn’t understand what can be more beautiful than what we had seen that day... We kept in mind the old lady’s words and we agreed that we had to check for ourselves ”next summer”.

This trip is extremely special to us. We had to learn some things the hard way. It’s nothing to brag about, but I feel obliged to share this story and expose the mistakes that were made, for others to learn from them. 

After Ciucaș and Lespezi I believed we were in proper shape to make the trip to Negoiu. But I am speaking for myself. For a trip like this, one needs a lot of training. That was the mistake number 1.

One can reach Negoiu Peak by following one of these routes:

•          Through The Salty Stitch (Cusătura Sărații) – some consider this to be the most difficult marked trail from our country (others might consider the region  ”At Chains” (”La Lanțuri”) from Piatra Craiului to be the most difficult trail).
•          From Negoiu Hut (Cabana Negoiu), making a detour from Cusătura.
•        From Piscul Negru, by going on form Lespezi Peak.
•        From Bâlea Lake (Bâlea Lac), via Lăițel Peak (Vârful Lăițel) and Călțun Lake (Lacul Călțun).

The first option gets a no from the beginning, we needed more experience. The third option would imply to redo the route towards Lespezi. I chose the last option in a heartbeat. I wanted to feel with my own little hands the chains from below the Lăițel Peak and to feel with my boots the ridge part of the trip. I know Rareș told me to shorten it, because it is too long that way, but I persisted. I read so many pages about this route and I watched dozens of movies with some parts of it. For me, there was no other way. If someone else was to write on this journal, probably he would say that this was the first mistake (In fact it would be the second). But it’s not the case :).

The plan

The plan was to reach Piscul Negru on a Tuesday and to sleep there. Wednesday was the day on the mountain: we wanted to be on the Transfăgărășan at 6 AM, and leave our car at Bâlea Lake, to reach the peak and then come back to Piscul Negru. This ”piece of cake” trip was estimated to last from 11 to 13* hours, breaks included. Thursday was booked for going back to Bucharest.

This is exactly what we achieved…with a little asterisk right to our names. For more info, see the minuscule writing at the bottom of the page.

Wednesday. We woke up at 5:30 AM, we packed our things and left the hut at 6:10 AM (there might be some voices who will say that I was late…I can’t deny that). It was the first time that day when we were the only people driving on the Transfăgărășan.

Heavy traffic on Transfăgărășan at 6:20 AM

Up there, in the parking space near the lake, there was no one so we couldn’t pay the parking ticket. We avoided the barrier, parked the car, tied our shoelaces and on we went.

Bâlea Lake--Paltinu Saddle (Șaua Paltinu) (blue strip, 55 min)

We left near the lake at exactly 7 AM. There was no one awake near us and the sun barely had the chance to heat up the valley. I had the feeling that we are leaving on an important expedition and I loved to see how the nature was waking up. Dragoș, if you are reading this, please observe that it is important if you start on a blue strip trail or a blue triangle one :).

 The sign near the Bâlea Lake

 Quiet

 Dragoș and the blue strip

Ah, what a fine day for a trip! 

 Dreamers

 Dragoș waiting for us

 The boys...

Mistake number 2 was: we left on an empty stomach. To be earlier on the mountain, we decided to have our first meal in Paltinului Saddle (Șaua Paltinului), but we felt our powers have left us. We took a break after 30 minutes of climbing. Surrounded by bees and flies, we had the nicest breakfast we had in the past year.

 Smaller and smaller

Re-energised, we started walking again and we lightened up even more as we could see the peaks in front of us. We didn’t expect to see them so early! Soon, we reached the indicator from the Saddle. 

 The twins Lespezi and Cornul Călțunului and  Negoiu...

A bit closer, in the center of the pic is Lăițel Peak

The sign from Paltinu Saddle

Paltinu Saddle--Lăițel Peak (red stripe, 1h 30)

I must admit that the times recorded on the indicators are poorly written. At Bâlea they said 4 hours until Negoiu, but in the Saddle (at 45 minutes away), the estimated time was 4 hours and 30 minutes… Mistake number 3 was that these times made the boys overconfident and weren’t mentally prepared for what was coming. I asked them to walk faster, but they didn’t listen.

Not long after, I saw the first cable that I knew well from pictures. To me, it seemed easy to pass, due to the helping chain that was there. After that, there are no dangers along the trail, until under Lăițel, but we will get there eventually. Nonetheless, one must walk carefully on the mountains.

Planning, thanks Matei

 Puddle, a small sign, Lăițel and the twins

First cable

 Closer

The trail

 Quiet before the Storm

 Lăițel and Negoiu...

 Dragoș and Lăițel Peak

Let’s say I have a sensitivity towards heights. I don’t feel like puking though and my vision doesn’t get blurry, but I still feel a great discomfort. I can’t stand seeing others sitting too close to a cliff and I never go near the edge, if the road doesn’t take me there. Because of that, before every trip I do much research about the difficulty and the length of the exposed portions. I want to know before what lies ahead of me and if it is worthy to risk my safety (after that, I can’t wait to walk on these routes). I tell you that in case you have a similar issue, or worse, so I can guide you somewhat. I am not the lucky one who doesn’t have problems near steep cliffs. On the other side of the spectrum, lies Dragoș, who has no issues of this type.

Before Lăițel there is a more exposed region, with chains form place to place. I must admit, I was scared there, even though it’s not the most technical trail I’ve travelled in my life. I was delighted to see the trail winding near the chasm, my heart started beating heavily. ”This is it, let’s see”. It was one of the regions that made me choose this particular route. There is a relatively steep descent, using some chains, and afterwards the trail has big boulders scattered amongst it. You have to climb and get down from those boulders and you have to rely heavily on your hands. I was observant and now, from the comfort of my own armchair, I remember fondly that region. The boys are saying that they had no problems. I didn’t expect less from them :).

 Let the fun begin!

Zig-zag

 I just went down on that

 "Wait a sec! I am taking a photo!!!"

 Obstacle race

A look behind: Matei, Sebi, Rareș and the small trail 

Ridge from Făgăraș

Can someone explain this, please???

4X4 here

 Another look behind

After that exposed area (easy to see from the picture), a continuous ascent towards Lăițel follows. From there, we saw this:

 Călțun Lake. Lespezi Peak and Cornul Călțunului Peak. Negoiu Peak.

I have to apologise now: this picture will repeat a few times because for me, they are of an unreal beauty. I can’t get enough of seeing it again. 

 The sign from the Lăițel Peak

On Lăițel we took a well-deserved break for eating. The time seemed to stand still. I was following the trail we were supposed to walk on and I always lost its trail in the same place. It seemed impossible for me to reach Negoiu. Afterwards, I realised that Devil’s Opening (Strunga Dracului) can be seen from up there, not the route we agreed upon. We made friends with a 68 years old man who was hiking usually in Făgăraș, especially through that area. Only if all of us would grow old like that…

Lăițel Peak--Călțun Peak (red strip, 1h)

We were on schedule and we loved what our eyes could see from up there. We began descending towards the lake and we met with a bunch of other tourists. Dragoș and Sebi were leading, while I stayed at the back with Matei and Rareș. We were full of joy. The descent is continuous, but nothing too difficult, you have to pay attention not to slip or to push down rocks and hit people in front of you.

 Făgăraș...

Rareș and Matei 

 The giants

Happy

 We just went down this crazy path???

 Matei and Rareș again

When I saw the new turquoise shelter, I knew I made it. We met again with Dragoș and Sebi and we stopped to talk a bit and take a lot of pictures. We were having a good time and it seemed that we had all the time in the world. That was mistake number 4. Our breaks were too long here and there, in the essential points.

 The new Călțun shelter

 The first sign near the lake

 The clouds are waiting for us...

 The second sign near the lake

 Călțun Lake and Negoiu Peak

 Sebi

I was NOT scrolling facebook, I was sending messages to my parents!

Thank you Matei for this photo!

Călțun Lake--Lady's Breach (Strunga Doamnei) (red stripe, 30 min)

At around 12 we moved from the old mountain shelter. The trail wanders through the right side of the lake and for the first part it climbs continuously on some enormous plates. 

Let's go! 

 Lăițel Peak and Călțun Lake

 Ascent

This is the moment when I realised something was off. Our walking speeds were very very different and I tried to speed them up a bit, but I failed. Moreover, Matei had some information from his sister that there are 50% chances of rain on the peak, exactly when we were supposed to arrive. I went with Dragoș forward.

The trail is going up smoother until the road splits in two: Ladyʼs Breach (Strunga Doamnei) vs Devilʼs Opening (Strunga Dracului) and the landscape changes completely; there are rock everywhere. Devilʼs Opening (Strunga Dracului) was closed a couple of years ago, because of rocks falling down and because it is extremely dangerous. Sadly, I heard of tourists ignoring this. Please, don’t do that. A few days ago, at the moment this is being written, a couple of Belgian tourists were rescued from there at 3 AM in the morning.

Even though Ladyʼs Breach (Strunga Doamnei) goes around a bit, it is safe. The marking is the yellow strip and it meets with the red strip at 15 minutes from the peak. The entry in the breach is through a funnel which allows us to pass on the other side of the mountain (you canʼt see that face in the next picture), the final ascent being made on the other mountainside.

 To the breach. Negoiu Peak

 A look behind 

The trail

Here the mistake number 5 was made, but I canʼt quite say what it was. Dragoș and myself reached the crossroads, but the others were way back, I couldn’t see them. Also, I felt the first raindrops, to be honest, they were quite rare and … I lost my temper. The rain wasn’t in our plans (mistake 6) and we had to reach the top as soon as possible, to have enough time to make our descent in time.

When they finally appeared, I told them that from what I know, we have an hour left, if we move quicker. We had to make a Rapid decision: to continue or to go back. I don’t think I was very nice during all of this. Also, we found out that Sebi had problems with his back.

Rareș was feeling lucky and was certain we were about to catch the 50% with no rain. We decided to go through the funnel and we decide later on the outcome of the trip. We then reordered ourselves: Dragoș, Matei, Rareș, Sebi and myself.

Lady's Breach (Strunga Doamnei)--Negoiu Peak(yellow stripe and towards the end red stripe, 1h)

 Lady's Breach

The funnel and some snow. Thanks, Matei.

After passing the funnel, we realised that the pains Sebi experienced were bad. We managed to free up his backpack, even though he was extremely stubborn. The situation wasn’t looking bright. As an evidence of that is the lack of pictures (I managed to get them on the way back). What follows was the mistake number 6, maybe the biggest of them all: we continued climbing. We were so close and no one wanted to go back. We were all selfish and reckless, and we almost paid the price for that.

 20 minutes after the funnel

From the opening we walked relatively close to one another, talking continuously, hoping we would cheer ourselves up and the pain will go away. From football to college stories and memories from other mountain trips, we covered all of them. Some good news though, the sky was clearing a bit.

Better weather

Just in front of us, the peak

What followed was a steep and continuous ascent, where you must use your hands (I believe itʼs called scrambling). It remembered me of the climbing on Viștea (from the mountain shelter with the same name). There was a huge piece of snow there and I thought for a moment we had to walk through it, but luckily it wasn’t the case. 

Stollen from Matei: Rareș, me and Sebi

So close... 

 The clouds are coming over us!

 Sebi 4X4

Abyss...

 Sebi. In the back are Lespezi and Cornul Călțunului Peaks

A look behind

I was alone for the last 10 minutes of this ascent. All I could hear was my own breath and I was walking slowly, trying to memorize all that was happening to me, every sharp rock and every pain. Being so close, I felt responsible and I was asking myself if we took the right decision to continue. On the other hand, I don’t believe I could’ve gave up back there…I think now I would make the same thing.

 Stone world

 Sebi and Matei

 Almost there....

I wanted so badly to reach the top, but when I first saw the monument, I wasn’t bursting with joy or enthusiasm. I was more relieved than anything else.

 Negoiu Peak

 Clouds and ridges

A look behind: Lespezi Peak in the clouds, the boys and Vidraru Lake

I let my backpack slide from my shoulders and I watched the landscape. On one side there were only white clouds everywhere. I breathe in relief. I was so proud of everyone, especially Sebi. At that time, I couldn’t comprehend his superhuman effort.

When all of us were on the peak, it hit me. I realised that we managed to do the hard half (we had the descent left). I don’t think I make a mistake when I say we were all emotional, the will prevailed. 

"From there, they could see the whole Universe and to enjoy the power they got, because they were not anymore simple humans, but Those-who-touched-the-Apex." (Sebi, 2017)

To be continued.

Official photo from the peak